Representation is not just an abstract concept; it is a powerful force that shapes how we perceive ourselves and others. For those who grow up without seeing themselves positively reflected in the media or public spaces, the message is clear: “You don’t belong.” This impact was profoundly illustrated by The Doll Experiment, conducted by psychologists Kenneth and Mamie Clark in the 1940s. In this study, Black children showed a troubling preference for white dolls, associating positive attributes with them while assigning negative characteristics to Black dolls. This experiment was groundbreaking, demonstrating how a lack of representation, or distorted representation, can damage self-esteem and self-worth from an early age.
The absence of diverse images in media and fashion creates a cycle of exclusion. When we see predominantly one group exalted as the standard of beauty or success, others are automatically relegated to invisibility or, worse, marginalization. When minorities are represented, they are often portrayed under restrictive stereotypes: the hypersexualized Black woman, the autistic person as an isolated genius or misunderstood outcast, the person with disabilities as an object of pity. These stereotypes are not authentic representations; they reinforce limitations and distort how the world views these communities.
The Importance of “Seeing to Believe”
A lack of representation directly impacts the construction of self-esteem. Without seeing themselves in positions of power or glamour, many people internalize the idea that they are not good enough. The phrase “seeing is believing” has never been more relevant. The ability to identify with successful figures reinforces, especially for children and young people, that success and beauty also belong to them. This is where authentic representation comes in as a powerful antidote to exclusion.
For autistic children, for example, there are few visible faces in media or fashion that reflect their experiences. Instead, they see stereotypes that do not match their realities, such as the “brilliant savant” or the “non-functional individual.” This lack of nuance reinforces the idea that they are different in a way that doesn’t deserve celebration. In contrast, when an autistic child sees someone like them — a model, an author, a public figure — in a prestigious space, the message shifts to: “I belong.”
Fashion: Transformation and Inclusion
The fashion industry plays a crucial role in shaping identity and self-esteem. Historically elitist, fashion is undergoing a slow but essential transformation, recognizing that inclusion is not just a moral issue but a cultural and economic necessity. Representation in fashion can literally save lives. Seeing people like you — in skin color, body type, physical condition, or neurodiversity — in campaigns and on runways sends a message of validation. Fashion can be a powerful tool for inclusion if it is intentional and creates space for voices that have historically been silenced.
Authentic Representation as a Revolutionary Act
True representation cannot be a mere marketing strategy. It is not enough to place diverse people in advertisements; it is necessary to give them space to tell their stories and have their voices heard. We must combat representation surrounded by stereotypes and invest in narratives that reflect the complexity of the human experience. It means allowing autistic people, Black people, people with disabilities, and so many others to occupy spaces of power — not as exceptions, but as the norm.
Representation matters because it teaches us to believe in what we cannot immediately see. It creates space for us to dream and see ourselves in ways society may not have shown us before. Seeing someone like us succeed tells us that we can succeed too. More importantly, it tells us we deserve to be seen and celebrated exactly as we are.
Fashion, like any art, has the power to transform lives. By committing to genuine inclusion, we create a world where everyone can feel seen, valued, and, finally, believe in what they once could not see.
Raquel Abiahy, 45 years old, Brazilian, late diagnosed Autistic, is a model and activist dedicated to the inclusion of Autistic people in the world of Fashion. Graduated in History and postgraduate in Art, Fashion and Culture, she also works as a columnist and creator of projects related to the inclusion of Autistic people, having collaborated with agencies, educational institutions and media outlets. Creator of the Instagram profile @autistatitude – the only one focusing on Autism and fashion – defends the innovative concept of ‘Inclusive Sensory Fashion’, which seeks to adapt clothing to the sensory needs of Autistic people, being the greatest authority in the exclusive Autism and Fashion niche in your country.
